Sustainability Initiatives and Challenges from Brand’s Perspective: Insights from Industry Veteran Jeff Hawes
In our series on advancing textile sustainability, insights from seasoned professionals like Jeff Hawes, Principal at Textile Trend Advisors, are priceless. With a career spanning over three decades and strategic roles at global giants such as Nike and Fanatics, Jeff brings a wealth of experience and a unique perspective on integrating sustainability into global textile operations. We are thankful for Jeff’s expert contributions regarding nuanced dynamics of the industry, the transformative potential of new technologies, and the strategic shifts necessary for a more sustainable future.
On Current Sustainability Initiatives and Biggest Challenges
Jeff highlighted that all brands are actively exploring various approaches to sustainability. He noted that the initial focus in textiles often centered on recycled polyester, which was a significant first step. However, he emphasized the need for broader measures, acknowledging that understanding the entire supply chain and being able to trace the flow of materials is crucial.
A pressing issue that elevated the importance of traceability involved the import of cotton from politically sensitive regions. Both Europe and the US have started to regulate this matter, reflecting its importance in global textile sustainability discussions. This situation served as an eye-opener and made the industry question – Do we really understand at the base level where all of our raw materials are coming from?
As we started tracking our tier 1 supply chain partners that made our garments, we had to dig deeper to understand where the yarn actually came from, how it was produced, and whether it was a natural fiber like cotton or hemp. Questions also arose about whether it was grown with sustainable farming practices, what chemicals were used to treat the fabric, and how wastewater was handled before finding its way to freshwater ways.
-Jeff Hawes
Speaking of wastewater management, which Jeff describes as a pivotal challenge in fabric production, this is where solutions like NTX Cooltrans can be so important for the future. While there have been various innovations in waterless dyeing, scaling these technologies to meet industry demands has been problematic. These solutions work well for niche segments but establishing a platform that can scale to meet the needs of large brands remains a formidable challenge.
Despite the difficulties, major brands are making progress, albeit slowly. The absence of a centralized database or a unified software solution means that companies often rely on their own systems, ranging from complex databases to basic spreadsheets. While this shows a universal commitment to enhancing sustainability, smaller brands often struggle more due to resource limitations. Jeff expressed confidence that all parties are doing their best under challenging circumstances.
The Uniqueness of the Textile Industry – Adding to the Challenge
The textile industry’s supply chain is notably complex, making sustainability efforts particularly challenging. Jeff Hawes highlights that few textile operations are vertical, where a single company controls the entire process from fabric production to garment assembly under one roof. This rarity leads to a fragmented process where raw materials and production stages often change hands, complicating traceability and accountability.
Recent legislation has pressured the industry to critically reassess and trace their supply chains. These changes are forcing all players to ensure the origins of materials and the conditions under which they were produced are transparent. However, the inherent complexity of the textile supply chain, where materials like polyester and cotton are treated as commodities – mixed together from various batches before selling, makes implementing these changes a formidable task.
Big Opportunity – Scaling New Sustainable Technologies
Implementing new technologies is vital for brands that aim to improve their sustainability practices and adapt to evolving consumer expectations and regulatory standards. For brands like Nike, Adidas, and H&M, which produce vast quantities of textiles, the ability to apply innovative energy or water saving technologies across their entire production lines could revolutionize their sustainability impact. Scaling these technologies not only enhances environmental responsibility but also aligns with the brands’ commitments to ethical practices and can provide a competitive edge in the market.
However, scaling these technologies presents substantial challenges. NTX Cooltrans, for instance, although a great process, it still faces hurdles in practical, wide-scale application. The complexity arises from the diverse nature of textile materials and the specific needs of different fabric types, such as cotton, polyester, nylon, and blends like cotton-poly. Each material reacts differently to sustainable technologies, requiring tailored approaches that can complicate the scaling process. Furthermore, the vast volumes of materials needed by large brands exacerbate these challenges, making it difficult to apply a single technology consistently across various product lines. This will take time Jeff Hawes points out.
Advice on Implementing Sustainability Practices to Supply Chain Stakeholders
On this topic, Jeff had a few points of advice:
- Start Small and Scale Gradually
The key is to start small and ensure that your sustainability initiatives are scalable for the long term. Stick with a technology or platform and give it time to gain traction. Many brands initially jump on sustainability efforts for marketing hype, but abandon them too quickly when results don’t materialize immediately. However, reaching consumers effectively and achieving scale takes time. Consistently communicate your sustainability story until it resonates with your target audience.
- Tailor Your Approach to Each Brand
Supply chain stakeholders must market their sustainable solutions in a way that resonates with each brand. Understand the brand’s target consumer and speak their language. The approach for Lululemon will differ from Nike, Fanatics, or Adidas because their consumer bases vary. Research the brand’s consumer profile and propose solutions that align with their values and have longevity. Ultimately, brands aim to serve their consumers, not just meet board obligations. Present sustainable technologies that can endure for years and genuinely appeal to the brand’s consumer viewpoint.
By starting small, persisting with consistent messaging, and tailoring proposals to each brand’s consumer base, supply chain stakeholders can effectively implement sustainable practices that resonate and last.
Carrots and Sticks: Driving Sustainability in Textiles
The Role of Government Regulations
According to Jeff, while regulations aimed at making the textile industry more sustainable are well-intentioned, there needs to be better understanding from regulators on the practical challenges and timelines involved in implementing certain mandates. Jeff explained that banning cotton from specific regions, for example, is difficult given how cotton is a globally traded commodity with fibers blended from multiple sources. Regulations around polyester microfiber shedding also require careful consideration of the most effective solutions along the entire supply chain rather than rushed bans. Jeff believes a balanced approach allowing reasonable timelines for compliance is needed.
The Influence of Investors
Jeff noted there is a growing recognition among investors that sustainability initiatives create monetary value for companies, in addition to their environmental and social benefits. While some investors remain focused solely on profitability, the prevailing view, according to Jeff, is that demonstrating genuine sustainability efforts resonates with consumers and prevents companies from being left behind. Investors now see sustainability not just as a nice-to-have, but as a driver of long-term financial performance.
The Role of Consumers
“I think consumers have zero understanding of the impact of textiles on the environment. I don’t think I could stop 100 people on the street and ask them to tell me how much wastewater is used every year or dyes or cotton farms or what. I don’t even think that a hundred people, if I asked, would know that polyester came from a barrel of oil.”
Jeff Hawes
Jeff further emphasizes that the textile industry is “one of the worst polluters on the planet”, particularly when it comes to freshwater usage. This suggests that while the environmental toll of textile production is well-documented, consumer awareness and understanding of these issues remains very low. Improving consumer education on the sustainability challenges in the textile industry appears to be an area that requires more attention.
Leadership for Sustainable Transformation
For large apparel and textile brands to successfully drive their sustainability agendas, Jeff emphasized that leadership qualities like realistic goal-setting and long-term commitment are essential. He explained that making lofty promises of rapid complete transformation is a recipe for failure. Instead, brand leaders must make genuine sustainable commitments backed by achievable goals and reasonable timelines for implementation across their operations and supply chains.
We thank Jeff for his contributions to our series.