Advancing Textile Sustainability: A Conversation with Ellen Schmidt-Devlin

For the final part in our series “Creating a Critical Mass in the Textile Sustainability Movement,” we spoke with Ellen Schmidt-Devlin, the Executive Director of the Sports Product Management program at the University of Oregon. Our talk focused on the progress and challenges in sustainability within the textile industry and explored insights into how the future could look. This conversation felt particularly hopeful, thanks to Ellen’s involvement with young people in the academic environment, who are passionately driving innovative solutions and fostering a more sustainable future.

The Evolution of Sustainability in Textiles

On the topic of where the industry stands today, Ellen outlined the transformation of sustainability from a peripheral concern, one which she described as “pre-competitive”, to a core strategy over the past 20-25 years. Originally, companies would “strap sustainability on” as an afterthought. Today, it has woven itself into the fabric of their operations. 

“Now, it’s not unusual to see a Chief Sustainability Officer at major companies. Sustainability has become a suit, not just an accessory.” 

Ellen added that smaller and medium-sized companies, in particular, find that emphasizing sustainability is crucial for connecting with consumers.

Have We Reached Critical Mass in Sustainable Textile Investments?

When asked whether the textile industry is in a bubble of sustainability, Ellen was contemplative. “It’s not exactly a bubble, but there are areas of sustainability that are critically important right now, such as traceability—labor, carbon footprint. New policies are coming online and companies and their suppliers are figuring out how to incorporate these without interrupting business.” Ellen highlighted the shift towards specialization in sustainability, with a focus now on tackling traceability, which she identifies as the most urgent need.

The Role of Academic Programs

Ellen highlighted the important role that academic programs have in teaching students about sustainability in the textile and apparel industries. At University of Oregon, they are working to include more sustainability in their courses. But, they realize that they could do more by making more classes available to all students. Ellen mentioned, “Our students rank sustainability as their top priority, followed by innovation.” By offering more courses on sustainability and making it a key part of their programs, universities are helping prepare a new generation of leaders who are ready to support sustainable practices in their careers.

Ellen also stressed the value of going beyond traditional classes by including talks with industry leaders, engaging the community, and the role of research projects. The University of Oregon often organizes conferences open to students and the public, with speakers like Nike’s Chief Sustainability Officer, who has presented both in person in Eugene, Oregon, and online. This approach helps educate not just students but also the wider community, increasing interest in sustainability. Ellen noted the university’s role in research, especially in creating new, plant-based textiles as alternatives to traditional oil-based materials. This work, prevalent on the West Coast, contrasts with the established oil-based textile research of the East Coast, underscoring the varied academic contributions to sustainability. 

Dreaming About the Future

Discussing the potential for sustainability in the textile and apparel industry, Ellen shared an insightful story about how future generations might view our current practices. She imagined her granddaughter reflecting on how outdated our retail system used to be, especially the way we produced massive amounts of clothing and shipped them across vast distances, only hoping someone would buy them. “In her world, inventory will likely be made to order, which would drastically reduce waste and transform our retail landscapes,” Ellen speculated. She also highlighted the potential role of AI in shortening product development cycles, which could better align production with rapidly changing consumer demands, making the industry more responsive and efficient.

Government’s Role

On the topic of government regulation, Ellen argued that proactive measures are necessary. “The government has been waiting to see if the industry would regulate itself sufficiently. It hasn’t, so now political pressure is mounting, and once that happens, the industry loses control,” she cautioned. Ellen sees a vital role for research centers and academia in helping to develop frameworks for traceability and transparency that can guide both government policy and industry practices.

Long-term Strategies for Building Critical Mass in Sustainability 

To help drive critical mass in textile sustainability, Ellen advises brands and manufacturers to listen more attentively to consumers. It’s about aligning with consumer desires and expectations. Brands need to master the art of listening, which is the most difficult yet most rewarding strategy. She also advocates for equipping manufacturers with the skills needed to innovate and communicate effectively with brands, enhancing partnerships across the globe. Manufacturers need to speak the same language as the brands and the consumers. 

Bridging Gaps with Innovation

Finally, Ellen gave us an update on NTX’s Bridges Innovation Center, set to launch in September 2024. This facility aims to be a nexus for advancing sustainable practices and technologies, providing a space for classroom learning, innovation labs, and showcasing sustainable production techniques. “It’s about forming bridges not just within local communities but internationally, balancing the dynamics between East and West manufacturing and branding,” Ellen concluded.

Our conversation with Ellen Schmidt-Devlin described an industry at a crossroads between traditional practices and a sustainable revolution. As we come to the end of this series, we’re grateful for all the insights from our contributors. Our next and final article will summarize our takeaways from these conversations along with our plans for moving sustainability forward in the world of textile manufacturing.